hospitality

I had the pleasure of meeting my professor's old teacher, Fujimori Terunobu. He greeted us warmly at Kokubunji Station as he reconnected with his old student. When we left the station, Fujimori guided us through two of his projects: the Soft-Hard Zinc House and the Chocolate House. The former a small gallery of artwork, and the latter a home for the owners of the gallery of whom he was close friends with. His smile was warm and genuine as he told us about the houses, happily answering any questions we had. Then Fujimori took us through his neighborhood before finally arriving to his home, the famous Dandelion House.

Fujimori and his Dandelion House

What surprised me was that when twenty college-aged students were at his doorstep, we were welcomed with open arms. Being a field trip, I expected nothing more than a short and cursory look of the house - but he invited us in. Upon entering his humble abode, we learned that Fujimori and his wife had prepared a tea ceremony for us. As we settled into the tea room, Fujimori's wife began preparing for the ceremony. She expressed  honest pleasure in the way she talked to us as she explained the process and rituals of the tea ceremony. We were each given wagashi, and rice crackers too if we didn't like the wagashi. After the first two cups were served, she asked for help serving the rest of us. We learned how to mix the matcha powder, and were given additional snacks and tea. As the sun started to set, giving a warm glow to the tearoom, we relaxed and socialized. Fujimori joined our conversation as well, talking about his home and answering more questions. When it was time to go, both Fujimori and his wife saw us out, thanking us and shaking our hands. I left their home with the warmest feeling - it was a glow of euphoria.

This type of hospitality, known as "omotenashi", is something I've become familiar with during my most recent excursion to Naoshima, Teshima, Takayama, Ainokura, and Kanazawa. It's what I experienced when I visited Fujimori's home - a renowned architect had welcomed us into his home, providing us with tea, stories, and snacks. It was heart-warming, like spending an afternoon with my grandparents. "Omotenashi" roughly translates to "to entertain guests wholeheartedly". However, this translation really does not capture what omotenashi is. Omotenashi is something you experience, something you feel. It also ties into this idea of "ichigo ichi" in tea ceremonies, where every encounter is special and finite, and must be cherished.

welcoming tea

breakfast at the ryokan in Takayama

all the food prepared by our hosts in Ainokura

This past week I traveled to more rural areas of Japan. At each stay, we were given the upmost care and treatment. The most obvious physical expression of omotenashi was food. Food is really how one shows such open generosity. It is a shared need we all have. To take the time to prepare, cook, and serve food that one will not even taste sends a strong message of warmth and welcoming. It's an indescribable feeling, but has been a strong symbol of hospitality since the beginning of mankind. It's something that really resonates between people, invoking a primordial bond that Japanese culture has really taken to heart. At each new residence, we were provided with freshly-cooked meals, unique to each area. The ingredients were gathered locally that day and prepared in a way reflective of the town. And these weren't just small meals either, they were huge, made up of many smaller dishes. The food was amazing, and I felt as though "domo arigatou gozaimashita" could not express my gratitude enough.

relaxing in our yukatas after braving the cold of Takayama

Another aspect of omotenashi, which I believe is a more subtle component, is bathing. Never have I enjoyed getting clean so much. Within everyday life, showers are taken for convenience; it is a chore that must be done. On this trip, a bath was provided at every stay. With this also came yukatas or pajamas, slippers, shampoo, conditioner, body wash, towels, face cream, lotion, and so on. Bathing was a way to pamper oneself. Being provided with a bath meant we were deserving of this treatment. It became ritualistic to cleanse and bathe, easing from the day's activities into a relaxing sleep. Undress, shower, scrub. Soap, wash, rinse. Deep breath and relax. Melt into the water and let time pass. All that matters is this moment in time. Rinse, dry, and get dressed.

This way of omotenashi is unlike any other experience I've ever had. I have come to recognize how special and unique it is, especially as my time here nears its end. Experiencing omotenashi gives so much insight into Japan, and I'll have to remember as well, "ichigo ichi".